Penning down my experiences in Ladakh
It was my father’s idea to visit Ladakh as he wanted to reminisce his days as a soldier-doctor; my ever-so-adventurous mother did not hesitate to go along on this trip either. And the third wheel that I have always been (with or without a choice), I tagged along.
I am really lucky to have over-enthusiastic folks who had researched well, so I was saved from all the preparatory work. However, I would suggest you do your diligent research before going to Ladakh. Ladakh is not another holiday destination where you can just behave touristy from day 1. For the best experience, you may follow some of the tips that worked for me:
- Acclimatization — no matter how fit or old you are, you have to give yourself at least a day to get acclimatized. We were in Leh for 3 days out of which one day was spent strictly in the hotel room.
- Weather — the weather is a combination of summer and cold. Carry some summer clothes and a lot of sweaters because it's going to be chilly.
- Sim card — after a lot of deliberation I came to a conclusion that BSNL, Jio, and Airtel postpaid cards work best in Ladakh. I would recommend going with a postpaid card because it may get difficult to top-up your prepaid sim cards.
- Back-up rule — be prepared for any calamity; medical help might be a day away. Keep everything ready/dump in the back of your car:
- extra food (dry food — chips, fruits, dry fruits, biscuits, water bottles)
- first aid kit (medicines for AMS, headache, fever, and any other disease that you might have)
- oxygen canisters
- warm clothes and blankets
- torch, batteries, charged power banks
- extra tyre for your car
- a notebook with all the important numbers (local police, hotel, family)
We scheduled our trip to Ladakh from September 25, 2021 to October 2, 2021. To prepare ourselves for the weather of Ladakh, we started consuming half a tablet of Dimox from day -1 (twice a day). Please consult a Physician before you pop up the pill. Again, I cannot emphasise the importance of getting acclimatised because you may not enjoy your trip if AMS hits you suddenly with no medical help around.
We only restricted ourselves to Ladakh and Leh. To summarize my trip quickly for those who just want to know how we planned it, here you go:
Day 1: We landed in Leh at 12 PM. Reached our hotel — Hotel Gomang Boutique by 1 and rested the entire day [night in Leh]
Day 2: We visited the Leh Market, Stok Palace, Stok Monastery, Thikse Monastery, Hemis Monastery, 3 Idiots School, Spituk Monastery [night in Leh]
Day 3: We visited Magnetic Hill, Zanskar and Indus confluence, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, Alchi Monastery [night in Leh]
Day 4: Khardong La Pass, Nubra Valley, Khalsar T point for adventure sports, Hunder [night in Hunder]
Day 5: Hunder, Turtuk (last village of India), Nubra Valley, Thang (Goba Ali), Hunder sand dunes [night in Hunder]
Day 6: Sumur, Siachen Base Camp (couldn't cover but was initially planned to), Panamik Hot Springs, Yorabso Lake [night in Sumur]
Day 7: Pangong Lake, Tchang La Pass, Leh Market night life [night in Leh]
Day 8: Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, War Memorial, Leh Market (because shopping doesn't end) [night in Leh]
Day 9: Back to Nagpur, Maharashtra
Read on for my detailed experience and recommendations!
Day 1
We live in Nagpur, Maharashtra and have two ways of going to Leh – either by a flight via Mumbai or a flight via New Delhi. We chose the latter as the layover time was less and convenient for us. We arrived in Leh on 25th September at around 12 PM. The weather was extremely pleasant when we arrived. We had to show a copy of our RTPCR reports at the airport exit. We had pre-booked two cabs as we were 5 of us and Leh did not allow more than 4 people in one car as per the new local rules due to COVID-19. We had chosen to stay in Hotel Gomang as its ratings were amazing and when we spoke to its owner, he was nothing but warm and helpful to us. The kind hospitality continued when we arrived here first. To welcome us in their humble abode, they gave us a stroll which is known as “Khatak” and fresh apple juice. We had reserved this day to purely acclimatise ourselves with the mountain atmosphere so we took to our rooms and rested well. I drank at least 3 L of water and kept a little bit of my room window open to not suffer from suffocation. There is one thing you must know in Leh. There is scenic beauty anywhere you look. Your eyes which are so used to looking at corporate jungle will feel refreshed the moment you see mountains piercing through a billow of clouds from your aircraft.
Day 2
The morning like any other started with breakfast. As it was the second day, we were still taking it slow. After breakfast, I rested for a while and then met up with a friend from the Indian Army who is currently posted around Leh. Luckily, his love for travel and exploration came to my rescue as he already knew most of the places and routes by heart. We started off with Leh Market. It’s situated in the middle of Leh. It’s an ancient market with all things tourist – postcards, bags, jewellery, souvenirs, eateries, fresh jams and juice shops and so much more. It’s colourful with roads made out of old bricks and is divided further into quaint small galis. After a little bit of shopping here, we headed to our first monastery – Stok Gompa. It’s amazing how the roads here at Leh are so welcoming. They offer a smooth ride and are a dream for all the bikers. On one side of the road, there was barren land and stony mountains while on the other hand, there were green trees and lushes till the end of my vision. Of course, this was due to the flow of Indus here. On all the road dividers and compound walls, there are stones that have a prayer or a quote inscribed in an incomprehensible language. To top it all, the weather was amazingly pleasant for the bike ride. All the monasteries here are on a hill or a height, so wear your trekking shoes! The monastery at Stok was shut for a while as it was the praying time of monks. However, outside the monastery, there was a huge life-size statue of Buddha that was glowing golden in the sun. After clicking a few pictures there, we then headed towards the Stok Palace and Museum which was a little farther than the monastery. The Stok Palace was built with either red bricks or painted red later. It had a very old vibe to it. We also learned that the reigning king stays there in the palace and also has guest rooms. After halting there for a while and having our mid-day meal, we went on to the Thikse monastery. Now, you might feel that all the monasteries offer the same then why visit every one of them? You don’t if you don’t want to! However, each Monastery offers a different landscape view which you can’t and should not miss. By the end of it, we were tired due to the long journey, we decided to head back and call it a day.
Things you could have covered which I didn’t: Hemis monastery and Shay monastery.
Day 3
After a sumptuous breakfast, we headed out for the day. Our first stop was the Guru Pathar Sahib Gurudwara. It is around 25 miles from Leh and was constructed in the memory of Guru Nanak. It is extremely scenic, and just like any other Gurudwara, this one also leaves your inner self peaceful. They have the availability of scarves to cover your head, so you should be good. The moment we entered the premises, there was something in the air that soothed our nerves, helped us feel relaxed; as though we are stress-free. After spending a good amount of time there, we headed to our next destination. Next stop was the Indus-Zanskar sangam. The road offers a million stops where you can pause and photograph yourself. And I promise you, each stop will have breathtaking beauty and an amazing landscape view. It's a dream for bloggers and those who love getting clicked. Albeit, we just halted at one place which was a hilltop for the Sangam admiration and progressed ahead in the journey. After this, we went to the Alchi monastery. As it was already time for lunch, we first decided to satisfy our hunger pangs before hitting the monastery! Now now, the Alchi monastery is known as the oldest monastery in Ladakh. Its located in Alchi village and has different settlements. Each settlement’s construction dates back to different times. What excited me here was that each settlement has got these paintings on the wall which have survived decades. Back then, they would use mud paint and how! Each settlement had a small gate to cross and huge ceilings. The monastery has been maintained so very well. I collected some postcards from here to share the memory with my friends. I absolutely loved the calm and quiet this monastery offered. After spending most of the pleasant afternoon at the Alchi Monastery, we headed towards the Indus river bed to enjoy the thrills of dipping our feet in ice-cold water. The riverbed was also a halt for drinking tea and river rafting. After a long day with so many pit stops and wonderful destinations, we decided to call it a day and head back to our wonderful abode in Leh.
Places we could visit but didn't: Alchi dam aka Nimoo dam, Indus riverbed river rafting
Day 4
Today, our travel plan was a little different than usual. We were going to live in the Hunder for the next three days, and as we were 5 of us in one car, we couldn't carry our entire luggage. The folks at Hotel Gomang were kind enough to let us keep our luggage in the storeroom for absolutely free of cost. I would take a moment here to appreciate the staff at the Hotel Gomang and their charming hospitality. They not only ensure their guests are safe and healthy, but also chalk out their travel plans. They take the phrase “at your service” very seriously.
Our plan was to go to Khardongla Pass and then to Nubra Valley. So we left the hotel at around 10 AM in the morning as there was a cycling rally in the morning. I would advise you to leave before 10 AM so that you can enjoy a lot more at Nubra Valley. On our way, we crossed South Pullu’s check post and then headed to the Khardongla Pass. Khardong essentially means ‘snow-face’. We halted there for around 10–15 minutes as there was less oxygen and it was extremely crowded with bikers and tourists like us. We did not wait there for coffee as the high altitude and lack of oxygen can cause severe damage to your health. After this, we had our lunch in North Pullu. Our lunch typically would be an omelette/ maggie/ tea + parle G. We crossed the Khardongla village and then Khalsar (also known as T-point). Here, you will find a lot of options for adventurous sports. I, being a fan of this, did Go-Karting and rode the All-Terrain Vehicle (ATV). A go-karting arena is set up such that you will have mountains surrounding you. While the cars are not as fast as the go-karts in the city, I promise it will offer you the pleasure of driving in an absolute serene environment. From here, we left for the Hunder village where we also had planned our night stay. We chose Hunder for two reasons — A. it is a midpoint for the rest of the touristy places after Khardongla and saves a lot of time; B. my father and mother wanted to stay in the exact same place they stayed 30 years ago when my father was posted here as an armed officer cum doctor. I have not clicked any pictures inside the army field ambulance because of safety reasons, but let me assure you, it was one of the best experiences I had in my life.
Day 5
The next day, after having a typical breakfast at the army mess, we left for Thang, which is the last village in India from where you can see Pakistan bordering villages. To get to Thang, we crossed Turtuk, Takshi, Thersay, and Skuru. Skuru was part of the ancient silk route and still have thin roads visible to naked eyes.
Our plan was to go 0 Rd. which is known as 0 Road. And just as its name suggests, the roads stop here. This area is completely under Indian army’s control and civilians cannot go there. Even the ones who serve in the defence services need prior permissions to come here. From the 0 road, you will get a direct view of the Pakistani villages (Prahnu village) with the help of telescopes set up here. This area is under ceasefire and hence currently operational. The rush to be in an area that is also directly visible to the ‘enemy’s eye’ is certainly unparalleled. I cannot describe the place much due to security reasons, but there was a certain thrill that all of us collectively enjoyed.
After this, we went to the Thang village, to visit the famous Goba Ali. Goba Ali’s family unfortunately was separated during the Independence and he was raised by the Indian armed forces. He is not formally educated but is known for his great engineering bent which was also used for the betterment of the nearing villages. We spend a good amount of time here and had our lunch midway. There is one thing missing in Ladakh. Availability of good toilets. as a woman traveller, I faced a lot of difficulty with this. The only time we would use a washroom was when we stopped for lunch. We next headed to the famous sand dunes, where you will also get to ride on the double hump camel. There are other adventure sports such as the ATV ride, etc too. We decided to skip the sports and the ride and enjoy the dunes to the fullest. Dunes are again surrounded by mountains and there is a small stream nearby with ice-cold water. The dunes were near the Field Ambulance where we headed back for the night. We ended the day with some yummy food from the army mess and star gazing at night.
Day 6
We left Hunder in the morning for our next stop Sumoor. Here there is the easy availability of a gas station to fuel up your vehicle. Our next stop was Namgyal Villa. Unlike a lot of places in Ladakh, Namgyal Villa offers a huge garden with fresh fruits, WiFi, a mountain view, food (3 meals and tea) and access to a hot shower. It is a pit stop for bikers. The hosts are absolutely helpful, warm, and welcoming. The property is quite well maintained and pristine. After dropping our luggage here, we headed to take bath in the Panamik — the hot water springs. The hot spring water is supposedly known for healing joint pains. The Panamik took just as meagre as Rs. 30 per person for the hot tub. The place also offers delicious food where we decided to have our lunch after a quick dip. There is a huge hot tub separated for the men and women where one can take a dip. Our plan was to visit the Siachen Base Camp which is now open to the visitors but due to an ongoing visit of a senior official, we couldn't. But the trip takers we were, we already had our Plan B ready. Just around Panamik, there is a holy lake not everyone knows about — Yarab Tso. It takes around 1 hour to trek to and fro. There is not a lot of seating area but the trek is lovely and treacherous for 60-year-olds. They say if you put a coin in there, your wish comes true. And yeah, I put like 10. You are not supposed to dip your feet or hands in the water due to its holiness.
While going back, we halted to dip our feet in the river Indus. This is the beauty of travelling in Ladakh. For a quick relief due to the trekking stress, we stopped on another riverbed for a quick dip and snaps. Then, we headed back and called it a day with the amazing food offered by the hosts.
Day 7
Ladakh aaye aur Pangong Lake nahi dekha, aisa bhala ho sakta hain kya? The most awaited tourist spot for me was Pangong Lake. We left from Sumoor as early as 7 AM in the morning for Pangong Lake. On our way, we crossed Khalsar, Argam, Shyok village, Durbook, and Tgantse. The 30% of the lake we have, is an alluring endorheic lake situated in the Himalayas with a few Bollywood movies shot there. The lake is known for its colour changing abilities from green to blue to red. You will find a lot of people clicking pictures on the 3 Idiots scooter and bum seats, and of course with the lake as well. The words seem to fail me for describing the wonderful lake. This hidden in the snow-covered mountains lake juxtaposes the barrenness of the mountain expanse with its rich presence. The royal colours complement the different strokes of the land. While everyone engaged themselves in photography, I sat there admiring the lake for as long and far as I could. You also have the liberty to spend a night at various camps located there. We chose to not opt for that, as the temperature drops severely at night.
The next stop for us for Durbook where we had quick lunch and then headed to Tchangla Pass. Again, just like Khardongla, we planned to stay here for a couple of minutes and pictures. We reached Leh via Thikse and called it a night.
Day 8
We had kept an extra day in hand to site see more of what we missed in Leh and not to forget, shopping. We started with Shanti Stupa which is famous for holding relics of the Buddha. It is not only religiously significant but offers amazing panoramic views of the city. We next visited the Leh Palace which still has the ancient Buddha relics, paintings, and that ancient royal aura. Some of the cutlery placed there is as old as 450 years and was used by the royal family. After visiting the 9 storeys Leh Palace, we headed to the War Memorial also known as the Hall of Fame. This place emanates pride and heroism. The army guns, types of equipment, light and sound show, war stories, and pictures will make you feel like a proud Indian. My father being retired as a doctor major from the army himself gave a small demo on how the re-compression bags were used.
After the goose-bumpy feeling this tour gave us, we got the opportunity to look at the other touristy thing that gave us shivers. It was the 1000kg Khaadi Indian National Flag that was just installed in Leh. It is so huge, we could spot it from a faraway distance easily. After this, we went to the Leh Market for some souvenir shopping. The day ended with me having a nice meal and alcohol over pizza and fries with my friend in the armed forces at Lehchen. Lehchen is also a very famous pub in Leh and apparently one of the most happening ones. Do try their beer! Another place I could have visited was Cheemath which is a vegetarian restaurant that offers Ladakhi food.
We took a trip back to Nagpur on Sunday with a halt at Delhi airport where I caught up with my best friends. What a way to end a lovely trip!
I do realise that this is an elaborate article but I couldn't do justice to the beauty of the trip in a shorter one. I hope this article helps you to book your Leh travel! Thank you for reading! Cheers!
